Frock Coat Toile

As this is the first time i have made this coat i decided to do a toile as the fabric is rather expensive wool and would rather not have to adapt it on the real thing.  I will probably have to do a bit on the real thing still but just minor alterations.

i used calico for my toile I'm not putting the sleeves in as i will do this on the real thing.  I put extra seam allowance on the pattern i use an inch all around, ( which I'm glad i did as it had to be let out).  Sewing together was quite simple however the pleats at the back took a while to understand which bit goes where and what pleats.  i found that the design for skirt of the coat looked very strange along the design line of the jacket and to me looked as though it should have gone along the waist line at the front.

 

i sewed half of it together first and tried it on finding it too small at the sides.  i then adapted that half by adding an extra 1/2 inch to each seam except c/f and side seam on the front.  i then did the same the other side and finished the toile. 

Trying this one on there were still a few things to adapt:

• Shoulder to tight.
• Shoulder to wide. 
• Armhole too tight.
• Gaped at the back side seam.
• Too long in the front.
• Too big at the C/F.

Basically all i did was re pin the shoulder seam by cutting it open at the seam. This had to be taken out quite a bit probably due to the fact the person I'm making it for is quite broad and muscular upper body so it was tight on him than it would be on another person.  The book did specify that the shoulders may go out of proportion and they were far too long and the armhole too tight so i sniped into it until he was able to move his arm comfortable across his chest and up.  Its important not to let out too much under the arm as it would be more uncomfortable to have to lift the entire side of the coat when lifting the arm as it puts more strain on that area. I then continued to pin around the armhole.

The Hem line needed to be changed as it looked as though he was wearing a dress and he didn't like the length at the front.  I initially sorted the c/f by taking it in 1 inch which made it a much better fit. I then pinned down the c/f into the skirt sloping it slightly more towards the back.  i didn't take anything off the length as it looked strange with a little skirt and big top part, a bit out of proportion.

The final adjustment was the gape at the back i just pinned it where it gaped and will take that off the pattern pieces.

Transfer all the adjustments to the pattern pieces using measurements and by laying it onto it and I'm ready to cut out of the fabric. which I'm very excited about!!!